
San Francisco's Historic Chinatown
San Francisco's Chinatown, the oldest in North America and one of the largest Chinese enclaves outside Asia, is a vibrant neighborhood that offers visitors a unique cultural experience. Established in the 1850s, this 24-square-block area is renowned for its pagoda-style architecture, exotic cuisine, and rich history, attracting more tourists annually than even the iconic Golden Gate Bridge.
Historical Landmarks and Monuments
San Francisco's Chinatown is home to numerous historical landmarks and monuments that reflect its rich cultural heritage and significant role in the city's history. One of the most iconic structures is the Dragon's Gate, also known as the Chinatown Gate, which marks the southern entrance to the neighborhood at the intersection of Bush Street and Grant Avenue. This ornate archway, adorned with stone lions and dragon motifs, was gifted by Taiwan in 1970 and serves as a symbol of the area's cultural identity.
Grant Avenue, the main thoroughfare of Chinatown, is itself a historical landmark. As San Francisco's first street, it has witnessed the neighborhood's evolution since the mid-19th century. The street is lined with traditional Chinese architecture, including colorful balconies and ornate facades that transport visitors to another time and place.
The Tin How Temple, located on Waverly Place, holds the distinction of being the oldest Chinese temple in the United States. Established in 1852 and rebuilt in 1911 after the 1906 earthquake, this temple dedicated to the goddess Mazu continues to be an active place of worship and is open to the public.
Another significant religious landmark is Old St. Mary's Cathedral, situated at the corner of Grant Avenue and California Street. Built in 1854 using bricks shipped around Cape Horn, it was the only building in Chinatown to survive the devastating fire that followed the 1906 earthquake. This resilient structure stands as a testament to the neighborhood's endurance and adaptability.
Portsmouth Square, often referred to as the "Heart of Chinatown," holds immense historical significance. It was here that the first house in San Francisco (then called Yerba Buena) was built around 1822. The square also witnessed the raising of the American flag in 1846, marking San Francisco's incorporation into the United States. Today, it serves as a gathering place for the community and features various monuments and plaques commemorating important events in the neighborhood's history.
The Chinese Historical Society of America Museum, located on Clay Street, offers visitors a comprehensive look at the Chinese American experience. Housed in a building designed by Julia Morgan, the museum showcases artifacts, photographs, and exhibits that chronicle the contributions and struggles of Chinese Americans throughout history.
For those interested in culinary history, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley provides a glimpse into the creation of this iconic treat. Although not ancient, this small factory has been operating since 1962 and allows visitors to observe the cookie-making process firsthand.
These landmarks and monuments not only serve as popular tourist attractions but also play a crucial role in preserving the cultural heritage and historical narrative of San Francisco's Chinatown. They offer tangible connections to the past and continue to shape the neighborhood's identity in the present day.
Cultural Festivals and Events
San Francisco's Chinatown comes alive throughout the year with vibrant cultural festivals and events that celebrate Chinese heritage and traditions. These festivities offer visitors and locals alike the opportunity to immerse themselves in the rich cultural tapestry of the neighborhood.
One of the most significant and widely celebrated events is the Chinese New Year, which typically takes place in February. This month-long celebration culminates in the Chinese New Year Parade, one of the largest Chinese cultural events outside of Asia. The parade features an array of colorful performances, including Chinese acrobats, lion dancers, stilt walkers, and the iconic 268-foot Golden Dragon. Accompanying events include a Flower Market Fair, a Chinese Community Street Fair, and the Miss Chinatown USA Pageant.
In August, the Chinese Culture Center of San Francisco hosts the annual Chinatown Music Festival. This free outdoor event showcases a diverse range of music and cultural performances in Portsmouth Square, often referred to as the "Heart of Chinatown." Attendees can enjoy a day filled with music, dance, crafts, and games, all celebrating the creativity and diversity of the Chinatown community.
Another notable event is the Cultural Festival in Chinatown, scheduled for May 25, 2024. Organized by the Chinatown History & Culture Association and the Chinese Historical Society of America, this festival aims to promote Chinatown's small businesses, deep history, and living culture. The event features lion dance performances, Chinese martial arts demonstrations, traditional music, Chinese herbal and medical healing consultations, and various art exhibitions.
The festival also includes a parade, children's activities, and an entertainment stage showcasing kung fu performances, singing, and musical instruments. Visitors can explore booths displaying unique crafts, artworks, and souvenirs, as well as indulge in a variety of cuisine options from traditional Chinese restaurants and local eateries.
For dance enthusiasts, the "Dancing on Waverly" event activates the historic Waverly Place between Clay and Sacramento Street. This festival celebrates Chinatown as a crossroads of local and international creativity, featuring diverse dance styles and performances. It aims to highlight various businesses, restaurants, and shops along Waverly Place while building community through art and vibrancy.
These cultural festivals and events not only provide entertainment and cultural education but also serve important community functions. They help to attract visitors to the neighborhood, support local businesses, and foster a sense of pride and unity among residents. By participating in these celebrations, visitors can gain a deeper understanding of Chinese culture and the significant role Chinatown plays in San Francisco's diverse cultural landscape.
Hidden Gems: Off-the-Beaten-Path Spots
San Francisco's Chinatown is a treasure trove of hidden gems waiting to be discovered by adventurous visitors. One of the best ways to uncover these secret spots is by exploring the neighborhood's maze-like alleys. Wandering through these narrow passageways offers a glimpse into the authentic daily life of Chinatown residents, away from the tourist-heavy main streets.
Among the most intriguing hidden gems is the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley. Operating since 1962, this small factory allows visitors to observe the cookie-making process firsthand, offering a unique peek into the creation of this iconic treat.
For those seeking panoramic views, the Vallejo Street Stairs provide a rewarding climb. Starting from Green Street, these steps lead to breathtaking vistas of the city, including sights of the Palace of Fine Arts and the bay. On clear days, visitors can even see as far as Marin and Tiburon.
Tucked away in unassuming corners are local grocers offering exotic fruits, aromatic spices, and other authentic Chinese ingredients. These shops provide an opportunity to engage with locals and experience the vibrant colors and enticing aromas of traditional Chinese cuisine.
For tea enthusiasts, hidden tea shops serve authentic bubble tea complete with chewy tapioca pearls. These cozy establishments offer a perfect vantage point to observe the bustling street life of Chinatown while enjoying a refreshing beverage.
Art lovers should seek out the neighborhood's hidden murals, which often depict stories of immigration, gentrification, and modern politics. These intricate works of art provide insight into the community's history and current challenges.
Off the main thoroughfares, visitors can find small, hole-in-the-wall shops and restaurants that are cherished by locals. While many of these establishments may not have English menus, they offer some of the most authentic culinary experiences in Chinatown.
For those interested in religious sites, the Tin How Temple on Waverly Place is a must-visit. As the oldest Chinese temple in the United States, it offers a glimpse into traditional Chinese spiritual practices.
These hidden gems provide a more intimate and authentic experience of San Francisco's Chinatown, allowing visitors to delve deeper into the neighborhood's rich cultural tapestry beyond the typical tourist attractions.
Best Times to Visit
San Francisco's Chinatown is a vibrant neighborhood that can be enjoyed year-round, but certain times and approaches can enhance your visit. The best time to explore Chinatown is typically in the morning, around 10 am, when shops and attractions begin to open. This allows you to experience the neighborhood as it comes to life, with locals going about their daily routines and businesses preparing for the day ahead.
For those interested in cultural events, February is an excellent time to visit as Chinatown comes alive with parades, fireworks, and festivals for the Lunar New Year celebration. This one-of-a-kind celebration offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in Chinese culture and traditions.
When planning your visit, consider starting your exploration at Portsmouth Square Park, often referred to as "Chinatown's Living Room". This central meeting place is ideal for observing locals engaging in activities such as Tai Chi or playing Chinese chess. From there, you can easily access many of Chinatown's main attractions.
To fully experience Chinatown, it's recommended to explore both the main tourist areas and the more authentic side streets. Grant Avenue, with its ornate Chinese architecture and traditional lanterns, is the bustling main drag perfect for souvenir shopping. However, don't miss Stockton Street for a more authentic experience, where you'll find local produce and fish markets.
For those interested in a guided experience, several walking tours are available that provide in-depth historical and cultural insights. These tours often include visits to working temples, traditional tea tastings, and opportunities to learn about Chinese-American history.
When it comes to transportation, Chinatown is easily accessible by various means. The iconic cable car is a popular choice, with all three lines stopping in the neighborhood. For a more modern option, the Central Subway Line now has a Chinatown stop, connecting visitors to the citywide Muni Metro system. If you're coming from Fisherman's Wharf, the 30-Stockton bus is a convenient option, offering a cultural experience in itself.
To make the most of your visit, consider timing your exploration to include meal times. Chinatown offers a wide array of authentic Chinese cuisine, from traditional dim sum to hole-in-the-wall eateries favored by locals.
Remember that Chinatown can get crowded, especially on weekends and during major events like the Lunar New Year celebrations. If you prefer a quieter experience, weekday mornings are generally less busy. Regardless of when you choose to visit, San Francisco's Chinatown offers a unique and immersive cultural experience that shouldn't be missed.
Culinary Delights of Chinatown
San Francisco's Chinatown offers a diverse array of dining options that showcase the rich culinary traditions of China. From hole-in-the-wall eateries to upscale restaurants, visitors can experience authentic flavors and innovative fusion cuisine.
One of the most acclaimed restaurants in the area is Mister Jiu's, a Michelin-starred establishment that blends traditional Chinese cooking with modern Californian influences. Chef Brandon Jew's innovative dishes, such as Dutch Crunch BBQ Pork Buns and Sizzling Rice Soup, have earned him a James Beard award. For a special occasion, consider adding the whole roasted Liberty duck served with peanut butter hoisin to your tasting menu.
For those seeking classic Cantonese cuisine, R&G Lounge is a long-standing favorite. Known for its salt-and-pepper Dungeness crab and elegant Cantonese dishes, R&G Lounge has been a Chinatown staple for years. The restaurant's three-story dining rooms are bustling once again, and they also offer takeout and app-based delivery options.
Dim sum enthusiasts should head to Great Eastern, a restaurant that boasts a menu of 83 items, ensuring there's something for every palate. This is one of the places where President Obama dined during his visit to San Francisco. Popular dishes include Shanghai Dumplings, Har Gow, and Mango Pudding.
For those craving spicy Sichuan cuisine, Z&Y Restaurant is a must-visit. This popular eatery has earned praise from culinary luminaries such as Cecilia Chang and even President Barack Obama. Don't miss their Chilled Beef Tendon and Explosive Chili Pepper Chicken Wings, paired with a cold Tsingtao beer.
If you're looking for a more casual dining experience, Good Mong Kok is famous for its dim sum and bao (steamed buns). Despite its small size and takeout-only menu, it's one of the best-known dim sum eateries in Chinatown. Their steamed char siu bun filled with barbecue pork is a must-try.
For late-night cravings, Sam Wo Restaurant is open until 4:00 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. This cult classic has been a San Francisco favorite since 1906. Try their Jook (Chinese Porridge) or BBQ Pork-Stuffed Rice Noodle.
Noodle lovers should visit Chong Qing Xiao Mian, which specializes in Sichuan-style noodles. Their Chongqing numbing spicy noodle dish is particularly popular among spice enthusiasts.
For a unique dining experience, China Live offers multiple concepts under one roof. In their ground floor Market Restaurant, try the Dungeness crab spring handrolls or the crispy-skin roasted pork belly. Don't forget to visit their second-floor bar, Cold Drinks, for innovative cocktails like the "Sometimes Old Fashioned" made with Peking duck fat-washed Scotch.
When exploring Chinatown's culinary scene, it's worth venturing beyond the main tourist areas. Many locals recommend exploring the side streets and alleys for hidden gems and hole-in-the-wall eateries that offer some of the most authentic experiences.
Remember that dining in Chinatown is not just about the food, but also about immersing yourself in the vibrant culture and atmosphere of this historic neighborhood. Whether you're enjoying dim sum with locals on a Sunday morning or savoring late-night noodles, each meal offers a unique glimpse into the rich tapestry of Chinese-American cuisine in San Francisco.
Chinatown Shopping Hotspots
San Francisco's Chinatown offers a diverse and vibrant shopping experience, with numerous stores and markets catering to both tourists and locals. The main shopping areas are concentrated along Grant Avenue, Stockton Street, and Waverly Place, each offering a unique atmosphere and selection of goods.
Grant Avenue, the main tourist thoroughfare, is lined with shops selling a wide variety of Chinese-inspired souvenirs, clothing, and decorative items. Notable stores include Canton Bazaar and Old Shanghai, both multi-story emporiums offering an eclectic mix of merchandise. Canton Bazaar, located at 645 Grant Avenue, features interesting antique furniture on its second floor, while Old Shanghai at 616 Grant Avenue spans three stories and offers everything from Chinese boxes and dishes to silk dresses and furniture.
For those seeking more authentic shopping experiences, Stockton Street is where locals tend to shop. This street is home to fresh fish markets, produce stands, and shops selling traditional Chinese goods. While many signs are in Chinese and some shopkeepers primarily speak Chinese, they are generally willing to assist non-Chinese speaking customers. The live animal and fish markets between Jackson and Pacific streets offer a fascinating glimpse into traditional Chinese culinary culture, though visitors should be aware that these animals are sold for food, not as pets.
Waverly Place, a two-block long street, provides a calmer shopping environment with a handful of gift shops, clothing stores, and jewelry shops. The Clarion Performing Arts Center, located at the corner of Waverly Place and Sacramento Street, is renowned as one of the best music stores and schools in the city.
For those interested in traditional Chinese medicine, the Great China Herb Company on Washington Street offers a vast array of Chinese herbs and consultations with Chinese doctors. This apothecary shop, established in 1922, retains its original wooden furnishings, providing an atmospheric shopping experience.
Specialty shops worth visiting include the Chinatown Kite Shop on Grant Avenue, known for its colorful selection of kites and wind-related items. The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley offers visitors a chance to see fortune cookies being made by hand and purchase freshly made cookies.
For tea enthusiasts, Vital Tea Leaf and Red Blossom Tea Company are highly recommended. These shops offer a wide selection of high-quality teas and often provide tastings for customers.
Book lovers should not miss City Lights Booksellers, an independent bookstore and publisher that has been a cornerstone of San Francisco's literary scene since 1953.
When shopping in Chinatown, it's advisable to compare prices between shops, especially on Grant Avenue, as similar items may be available at different price points. Many stores are open daily, typically from around 10 am to 6 pm, though hours may vary.
For those driving to Chinatown, there are two convenient parking garages in the area. However, public transportation is also readily available, with the California cable car line running through the neighborhood and both Powell cable car lines running along one side of Chinatown.
Shopping in San Francisco's Chinatown is not just about making purchases; it's an immersive cultural experience that allows visitors to explore the rich heritage and vibrant community of this historic neighborhood.
Annual Parades and Celebrations
San Francisco's Chinatown is renowned for its vibrant annual parades and celebrations, with the Chinese New Year Parade being the most prominent and spectacular event. This illuminated night parade, the largest of its kind outside of Asia, draws up to half a million visitors to the city. The parade typically takes place in January or February, depending on the lunar calendar, and follows a 1.3-mile route that starts on Market Street, winds around Union Square, and ends on Kearny Street.
The Chinese New Year Parade in San Francisco has a rich history dating back to the 1860s. It was initially organized by the Chinese community and later opened to the wider public. Since 1958, the Chinese Chamber of Commerce has been responsible for organizing and programming the event. The parade features an impressive array of attractions, including:
A 288-foot-long golden dragon maneuvered by over one hundred trained martial artists
Kung fu troupes and ribbon dancers
High school marching bands
Miss Chinatown U.S.A. and her court
Elaborate floats and costumes
Two million firecrackers set ablaze during the event
In addition to the main parade, the Chinese New Year celebrations in Chinatown include other events such as the Flower Festival, held before the first day of Chinese New Year. This festival allows families to purchase traditional New Year blooms like chrysanthemums, orchids, and cherry or apricot blossoms, as well as jade plants and lucky bamboo for good fortune.
The Chinese Community Street Fair, held on parade weekend, offers visitors an inside look at the neighborhood with over one hundred booths run by nonprofits, corporations, and local businesses. Visitors can sample traditional New Year snacks and experience various aspects of Chinese culture.
While the Chinese New Year Parade is the most famous, Chinatown hosts other significant celebrations throughout the year. The Autumn Moon Festival is another important event that showcases Chinese customs and traditions. These celebrations provide opportunities for visitors to witness and participate in various rituals and practices that are deeply rooted in Chinese culture, including a combination of ancestral worship, Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, and village traditions.
Throughout the year, visitors to Chinatown may also encounter smaller-scale celebrations and customs. For example, the sight of drummers and lion dancers performing outside a store often indicates the commissioning of a new business, with acrobatics and firecrackers used to bring good fortune.
These annual parades and celebrations not only serve as major tourist attractions but also play a crucial role in preserving and sharing Chinese cultural heritage with the wider community. They offer a unique and immersive experience for visitors, allowing them to engage with the rich traditions and vibrant spirit of San Francisco's Chinatown.
Traditional Music and Dance Performances
Traditional music and dance performances play a significant role in preserving and showcasing the rich cultural heritage of San Francisco's Chinatown. These performances offer visitors a unique opportunity to experience authentic Chinese artistic expressions and gain deeper insights into the community's traditions.
Chinatown hosts various traditional music and dance performances throughout the year, often coinciding with major cultural festivals and events. During the Chinese New Year celebrations, visitors can witness spectacular displays of traditional Chinese dance, including the iconic lion dance and dragon dance performances. These intricate dances, accompanied by the rhythmic beats of drums and cymbals, are believed to bring good luck and ward off evil spirits.
The lion dance, in particular, is a highlight of many Chinatown celebrations. Performed by skilled dancers inside elaborate lion costumes, this dance combines acrobatics, martial arts, and traditional Chinese music. Visitors can often see lion dance performances during store openings or other special events in the neighborhood, as they are believed to bring good fortune to businesses.
Traditional Chinese music performances are also a common feature in Chinatown. These may include performances on instruments such as the erhu (a two-stringed fiddle), guzheng (Chinese zither), and dizi (Chinese flute). These instruments produce distinctive sounds that are integral to Chinese classical and folk music traditions.
The Center for Traditional Music and Dance, while not specifically located in San Francisco's Chinatown, offers insights into the importance of preserving and promoting traditional performing arts. Such organizations often work to safeguard cultural heritage by focusing on the transmission of knowledge and techniques, strengthening the bond between master performers and apprentices.
Visitors to Chinatown may encounter both formal performances in dedicated venues and impromptu street performances. Portsmouth Square, often referred to as the "Heart of Chinatown," is a popular location for outdoor performances and cultural events. Here, visitors might see groups practicing tai chi or traditional Chinese dance in the early mornings.
It's important to note that while these performances serve as popular tourist attractions, they also play a crucial role in maintaining cultural identity within the community. They provide a means for younger generations to connect with their heritage and for the community to share its traditions with a wider audience.
However, as with many traditional art forms worldwide, there are challenges in preserving these performances in their authentic form. The influence of tourism and modernization can sometimes lead to adaptations that cater more to visitor expectations than to traditional practices. Despite this, many performers and organizations in Chinatown strive to maintain the integrity and authenticity of their cultural expressions.
For visitors interested in experiencing these traditional performances, it's recommended to check local event calendars, particularly around major Chinese festivals. Many of these performances are free and open to the public, offering an accessible way to immerse oneself in the vibrant cultural life of San Francisco's Chinatown.
Culinary Festivals and Street Food
San Francisco's Chinatown is renowned for its vibrant culinary scene, which extends beyond traditional restaurants to include exciting food festivals and diverse street food offerings. These events and experiences provide visitors with unique opportunities to sample a wide array of Chinese cuisine and immerse themselves in the neighborhood's rich food culture.
One of the most anticipated culinary events in Chinatown is the Dragon Fest, New York City's first and largest outdoor Chinese food and culture festival. While not specifically held in San Francisco, this event showcases the growing popularity and diversity of Chinese cuisine in major U.S. cities. Dragon Fest features over 100 varieties of Chinese cuisine, including traditional favorites like soup dumplings and more unique offerings such as dragon's beard candy and lotus root sandwiches. The success of events like Dragon Fest highlights the increasing interest in Chinese food and culture across the country.
In San Francisco's Chinatown, visitors can experience a variety of food-focused events throughout the year. The Chinese New Year celebrations, typically held in February, often include food markets and street fairs where visitors can sample traditional New Year treats and delicacies. These events provide an excellent opportunity to taste seasonal specialties and learn about the cultural significance of certain foods in Chinese New Year traditions.
Street food plays a significant role in Chinatown's culinary landscape. While walking through the neighborhood, visitors can find numerous street vendors and small shops offering quick, affordable, and delicious bites. Popular street food items include:
Egg tarts: A Cantonese pastry with a flaky crust and sweet egg custard filling
Bao: Steamed buns filled with various savory or sweet ingredients
Jianbing: A savory crepe-like pancake filled with egg, scallions, and crispy wonton strips
Bubble tea: A Taiwanese drink featuring tea with chewy tapioca pearls
For those seeking a more organized food tour experience, several companies offer guided culinary walks through Chinatown. These tours often combine food tastings with historical and cultural information, providing a comprehensive understanding of the neighborhood's culinary heritage.
The popularity of Chinese street food and festival cuisine has also influenced the broader San Francisco food scene. Many restaurants and food trucks throughout the city now offer their own interpretations of classic Chinese street food dishes, often with a modern or fusion twist.
It's worth noting that while San Francisco's Chinatown may not host a dedicated Chinese food festival on the scale of New York's Dragon Fest, the neighborhood's vibrant food scene is a year-round attraction. The density of restaurants, bakeries, and food shops in Chinatown creates a festival-like atmosphere for food enthusiasts on any given day.
Visitors should be aware that food safety standards for street vendors can vary. It's generally advisable to choose vendors that appear clean and have a high turnover of customers. Additionally, those with dietary restrictions or allergies should be cautious and ask about ingredients when trying street food.
By participating in culinary festivals and exploring the street food scene in Chinatown, visitors can gain a deeper appreciation for the diversity and richness of Chinese cuisine while supporting local businesses and experiencing the neighborhood's unique food culture firsthand.
Underground Art Galleries
San Francisco's Chinatown is home to a vibrant underground art scene, featuring galleries and spaces that showcase contemporary and experimental works. These venues offer visitors a unique perspective on the neighborhood's artistic expression, often blending traditional Chinese influences with modern aesthetics.
One notable space is Chinatown Soup, which, while located in New York's Chinatown, exemplifies the type of underground art galleries found in similar neighborhoods. Chinatown Soup operates as a curated gallery that invites artists to participate in creative community outside of the mainstream art world. Their exhibits aim to re-contextualize artworks, making alternative narratives visible and granting fresh awareness to traditional understandings of space and place through radical storytelling.
The gallery at Chinatown Soup takes a visionary approach to arts, being both reflective and future-focused from a hyper-present perspective. By expanding the notion of what it means to be an artist, they create opportunities for people to experiment and innovate while preserving neighborhood culture.
In addition to exhibition spaces, underground art galleries in Chinatown often include studio spaces for resident artists. For instance, Chinatown Soup's studio is an underground space where artists work and play, drawing inspiration from historical collectives like the Basement Workshop of 1970s Chinatown. This workshop, started by young urban planners and artists, grew from humble beginnings to spawn multiple longstanding cultural arts institutions.
These underground spaces often serve as laboratories for experimental and conscious art. They may host a variety of activities, from printing zines and designing projects to creating art for display in the main gallery spaces.While specific information about San Francisco's Chinatown underground art galleries is limited in the provided sources, it's likely that similar spaces exist in the neighborhood. These galleries might be found in unmarked buildings or off-the-beaten-path locations, offering fringe art exhibits and contemporary installations.
Visitors interested in exploring Chinatown's underground art scene should keep an eye out for events like "first Fridays," which often feature gallery openings and art walks. These events can provide access to multiple galleries and art spaces in a single evening, offering a comprehensive view of the neighborhood's artistic offerings.
It's worth noting that the underground art scene in Chinatown often reflects the neighborhood's unique cultural blend, addressing themes such as immigration, gentrification, and cultural identity. These galleries provide a platform for emerging artists, particularly those from the Chinese-American community, to showcase their work and engage with contemporary issues.
When seeking out these underground art spaces, visitors should be prepared for unconventional settings and potentially challenging artworks. The appeal of these galleries lies in their ability to surprise and provoke thought, offering a stark contrast to more traditional art venues in the city.
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